History Overview
The upper St. Joe River region in Idaho is a land rich with history, shaped by Native American tribes, Jesuit missionaries, gold prospectors, loggers, and railroaders. The Coeur d’Alene Indians once called it “the Gentle River,” relying on its resources for food and shelter before being relocated to a reservation in the late 19th century. Gold seekers flooded the area in the 1800s, but few struck it rich, leaving behind only place names like Prospector Creek and Gold Creek. By the early 1900s, logging camps and homesteaders took over, drawn by the vast white pine and cedar forests. Claim-jumpers and disputes were common, sometimes leading to violent confrontations, like the 1904 killings of two alleged land thieves. The arrival of the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railroad in 1909 transformed the region, making Avery a crucial division point along the transcontinental line. The railroad brought commerce, development, and even three U.S. presidents—William Howard Taft, Warren G. Harding, and Harry S. Truman—who made stops in the area. Wild towns like Taft, Montana, and Grand Forks, Idaho, sprang up along the tracks, known for saloons, gambling, and lawlessness. Logging and rail transport fueled the local economy for decades, but as the railroad faded, so did many of the once-thriving towns. By 1980, the last freight train had passed through, leaving behind ghost camps, abandoned tunnels, and iron trestles towering over remote wilderness. Today, the St. Joe’s legacy lives on through outdoor enthusiasts, who come for its world-class fly-fishing, hiking, and camping. Though the echoes of train whistles have long faded, remnants of the past remain for those who venture into the region’s history-laden landscape.
A Brief History of Avery, ID
Avery, Idaho, is a historic town nestled in the upper St. Joe River country, once a bustling hub of railroad activity, logging, and frontier life. Established in the early 1900s, Avery became a key division point for the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railroad (Milwaukee Road). It was where electric locomotives were switched for steam or diesel engines, making it a vital stop on the transcontinental rail line. At its peak, Avery boasted a train depot, hotels, a school, and even a baseball field, serving as a lively center for railroad workers and their families.
Avery and the surrounding region faced numerous hardships. The devastating Great Fire of 1910, one of the largest wildfires in U.S. history, swept through northern Idaho and Montana, destroying millions of acres of forest, entire towns, and parts of the Milwaukee Road’s infrastructure. Avery narrowly escaped total destruction, though the flames came dangerously close. In later years, severe flooding—including a particularly destructive flood in 1933—damaged rail lines, homes, and businesses, further challenging the town’s resilience.
Beyond the railroad, logging was a cornerstone of Avery’s economy. The vast forests of the St. Joe River valley attracted homesteaders and timber companies alike. Loggers worked the surrounding mountains, using splash dams and flumes to send timber downstream, while railroad cars hauled massive loads of lumber to markets across the country. Avery also had its share of rough-and-tumble frontier life, with saloons, moonshiners, and even notorious claim-jumpers who sometimes met violent ends.
Despite its early prosperity, Avery’s decline began when the Milwaukee Road ended passenger service in 1961, followed by the complete removal of the railroad in 1980. With the loss of rail traffic, the town’s population dwindled, leaving only a small community behind. Today, Avery serves as a gateway for outdoor recreation, with visitors exploring the old railroad tunnels, trestles, and ghost camps that stand as echoes of its storied past.
Avery and the surrounding region faced numerous hardships. The devastating Great Fire of 1910, one of the largest wildfires in U.S. history, swept through northern Idaho and Montana, destroying millions of acres of forest, entire towns, and parts of the Milwaukee Road’s infrastructure. Avery narrowly escaped total destruction, though the flames came dangerously close. In later years, severe flooding—including a particularly destructive flood in 1933—damaged rail lines, homes, and businesses, further challenging the town’s resilience.
Beyond the railroad, logging was a cornerstone of Avery’s economy. The vast forests of the St. Joe River valley attracted homesteaders and timber companies alike. Loggers worked the surrounding mountains, using splash dams and flumes to send timber downstream, while railroad cars hauled massive loads of lumber to markets across the country. Avery also had its share of rough-and-tumble frontier life, with saloons, moonshiners, and even notorious claim-jumpers who sometimes met violent ends.
Despite its early prosperity, Avery’s decline began when the Milwaukee Road ended passenger service in 1961, followed by the complete removal of the railroad in 1980. With the loss of rail traffic, the town’s population dwindled, leaving only a small community behind. Today, Avery serves as a gateway for outdoor recreation, with visitors exploring the old railroad tunnels, trestles, and ghost camps that stand as echoes of its storied past.
Railroad History
The railroad industry in Avery, Idaho, played a crucial role in the development of the town and the surrounding St. Joe River country. In 1909, the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railroad (Milwaukee Road) extended its transcontinental line through the rugged Bitterroot Mountains, selecting Avery as a key division point. This decision transformed the remote wilderness into a bustling railroad town, as Avery became a major stop where electric locomotives—used for the steep mountain passes—were switched for steam or diesel engines to continue westward.
The railroad brought workers, businesses, and families to Avery, fueling its economy and connecting it to major cities like Chicago and Tacoma. The Milwaukee Road was known for its cutting-edge electric trains, introduced in 1915, which allowed for safer and more efficient travel through the difficult mountain terrain. These powerful electric locomotives, such as the EP-2 Bipolar and the Little Joe electric engines, were well-suited for the demanding mountain grades and long tunnels, including the 8,771-foot St. Paul Pass (Taft) Tunnel, a massive engineering feat.
The railroad’s presence had a profound impact on the region. It supported the logging industry, transporting vast quantities of timber from the forests to national markets. It also facilitated commerce and travel, making Avery a lively town with a depot, hotels, saloons, and even a bear-wrestling attraction for visitors. However, the railroad was constantly challenged by natural disasters—the Great Fire of 1910 burned miles of track and surrounding forests, and repeated flooding in later years damaged rail infrastructure, making maintenance costly.
Despite its historical significance, the Milwaukee Road faced financial difficulties, leading to the discontinuation of passenger service in 1961 and the complete abandonment of the line through Avery in 1980. The removal of the tracks marked the end of an era, turning what was once a thriving railroad town into a quiet outpost. Today, remnants of the railroad, including old tunnels, trestles, and converted rail trails, serve as a historical reminder of Avery’s golden age as a crucial stop on one of America’s most ambitious railway lines.
The railroad brought workers, businesses, and families to Avery, fueling its economy and connecting it to major cities like Chicago and Tacoma. The Milwaukee Road was known for its cutting-edge electric trains, introduced in 1915, which allowed for safer and more efficient travel through the difficult mountain terrain. These powerful electric locomotives, such as the EP-2 Bipolar and the Little Joe electric engines, were well-suited for the demanding mountain grades and long tunnels, including the 8,771-foot St. Paul Pass (Taft) Tunnel, a massive engineering feat.
The railroad’s presence had a profound impact on the region. It supported the logging industry, transporting vast quantities of timber from the forests to national markets. It also facilitated commerce and travel, making Avery a lively town with a depot, hotels, saloons, and even a bear-wrestling attraction for visitors. However, the railroad was constantly challenged by natural disasters—the Great Fire of 1910 burned miles of track and surrounding forests, and repeated flooding in later years damaged rail infrastructure, making maintenance costly.
Despite its historical significance, the Milwaukee Road faced financial difficulties, leading to the discontinuation of passenger service in 1961 and the complete abandonment of the line through Avery in 1980. The removal of the tracks marked the end of an era, turning what was once a thriving railroad town into a quiet outpost. Today, remnants of the railroad, including old tunnels, trestles, and converted rail trails, serve as a historical reminder of Avery’s golden age as a crucial stop on one of America’s most ambitious railway lines.
The Great Fire of 1910
The Great Fire of 1910, also known as the Big Burn, was one of the largest wildfires in U.S. history, devastating much of northern Idaho, including the town of Avery. On August 20-21, 1910, hurricane-force winds fanned hundreds of small fires into an unstoppable inferno, consuming over 3 million acres of forest across northeastern Washington, northern Idaho, and western Montana.
Avery, a critical railroad division point for the Milwaukee Road, was directly in the fire’s path. As the flames advanced, frantic efforts were made to save the town. Many residents and railroad workers sought refuge in the St. Joe River, while firefighters, railway crews, and townspeople fought to protect buildings and infrastructure. Though parts of the town were damaged, Avery was one of the few communities that narrowly escaped complete destruction, thanks in part to the Milwaukee Road’s fire trains, which sprayed water along the tracks.
The fire, however, devastated the surrounding forests, crippling the logging industry that fueled Avery’s economy. Nearly 100 firefighters and civilians lost their lives, many in the mountains near Avery. The disaster led to major changes in U.S. forest management, prompting the federal government to expand the U.S. Forest Service and implement more aggressive wildfire prevention strategies.
Though Avery survived the flames, the fire left a lasting impact on the region. The loss of timber slowed economic growth, and scars from the fire were visible for decades. Today, the Big Burn remains a pivotal moment in the town’s history, a testament to both the destructive power of nature and the resilience of the people who called Avery home.
Avery, a critical railroad division point for the Milwaukee Road, was directly in the fire’s path. As the flames advanced, frantic efforts were made to save the town. Many residents and railroad workers sought refuge in the St. Joe River, while firefighters, railway crews, and townspeople fought to protect buildings and infrastructure. Though parts of the town were damaged, Avery was one of the few communities that narrowly escaped complete destruction, thanks in part to the Milwaukee Road’s fire trains, which sprayed water along the tracks.
The fire, however, devastated the surrounding forests, crippling the logging industry that fueled Avery’s economy. Nearly 100 firefighters and civilians lost their lives, many in the mountains near Avery. The disaster led to major changes in U.S. forest management, prompting the federal government to expand the U.S. Forest Service and implement more aggressive wildfire prevention strategies.
Though Avery survived the flames, the fire left a lasting impact on the region. The loss of timber slowed economic growth, and scars from the fire were visible for decades. Today, the Big Burn remains a pivotal moment in the town’s history, a testament to both the destructive power of nature and the resilience of the people who called Avery home.
Logging Industry
The logging industry in the Avery, Idaho region played a vital role in the town’s development, driven primarily by the Marble Creek drainage, which held the largest stand of white pine in North America—and the world. White pine was highly prized for its knot-free wood, making it ideal for construction and furniture production. This valuable resource spurred a booming timber industry that shaped the economy and landscape of the St. Joe River country.
In the early 1900s, logging operations used log chutes, flumes, and splash dams to transport timber down the steep mountain slopes. Massive log drives would send thousands of logs rushing down the St. Joe River and its tributaries to mills in St. Maries and beyond. The Milwaukee Road railroad, which arrived in Avery in 1909, further expanded the industry by providing a faster and more efficient means of transporting lumber to markets across the country.
Logging camps sprang up throughout the region, with Marble Creek becoming a major hub of timber operations. The area was filled with sawmills, bunkhouses, and saloons, creating a rough and rowdy frontier culture. Despite its success, the industry faced major challenges, including the Great Fire of 1910, which destroyed vast sections of prime forest, and later, environmental regulations and economic shifts that led to its decline.
Today, remnants of the industry remain in the form of abandoned logging camps, rusting steam donkeys, and historic flumes, serving as reminders of the era when white pine was king and the forests of the Avery region fueled one of the most significant logging operations in American history.
In the early 1900s, logging operations used log chutes, flumes, and splash dams to transport timber down the steep mountain slopes. Massive log drives would send thousands of logs rushing down the St. Joe River and its tributaries to mills in St. Maries and beyond. The Milwaukee Road railroad, which arrived in Avery in 1909, further expanded the industry by providing a faster and more efficient means of transporting lumber to markets across the country.
Logging camps sprang up throughout the region, with Marble Creek becoming a major hub of timber operations. The area was filled with sawmills, bunkhouses, and saloons, creating a rough and rowdy frontier culture. Despite its success, the industry faced major challenges, including the Great Fire of 1910, which destroyed vast sections of prime forest, and later, environmental regulations and economic shifts that led to its decline.
Today, remnants of the industry remain in the form of abandoned logging camps, rusting steam donkeys, and historic flumes, serving as reminders of the era when white pine was king and the forests of the Avery region fueled one of the most significant logging operations in American history.